Culinary Institute of America – Taste of the Hudson Valley Boot Camp – 12/13/08
A few months ago I received an invitation to observe a cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America, the most prestigious cooking college in the
country. The CIA offers about 25 different Boot Camp cooking classes open to the public through single or multi-day programs. Flipping through the
program guide I felt I was going to have a hard time deciding which class to take. With topics ranging from Seafood, Seasonal Soups and Italian-
American all of them were of interest but as I leafed through page by page I learned that this was one of my easiest decisions when I found the Taste of
the Hudson Valley Boot Camp. This boot camp focuses on the importance of eating locally and how to prepare ingredients from the Hudson Valley. I
couldn’t have found a more perfect class to experience.
I awoke early on a cold Saturday morning in the Hudson Valley, a full moon still hanging in an awaking sky. Route 9 was virtually empty as I started
my 30 minute drive up to the CIA in Hyde Park NY. As I drove my mind was racing with excitement about the cooking experience but also the
writing opportunity ahead of me. In all of my past experiences I enjoyed complete anonymity. This was the first time my presence as a food writer
was going to be known. My primary goal for the day was to not look stupid, other than that I just wanted to enjoy the experience of cooking in the
same kitchens that the students of the CIA use daily. In an effort to be punctual I seemed to have overdone it a bit, as I pulled into the parking garage I
noticed I was the only car in sight.
All of the boot camps start with a breakfast buffet in the grand Farquharson Hall which was formerly a church when the campus was a Jesuit
Seminary before the CIA moved to this location in 1970. I was curious to see what kind of people take these boot camp classes. I wasn’t sure if it would
be all hard-core foodies with expensive knife cases under their arms, retired people looking for a weekend activity, more women or more men. I really
had no idea what to expect. As I looked around the room I found that it was all of the above. There were a few serious foodies in attendance with their
own knifes, but really it included every type of person you could imagine, it really was a diverse crowd. It shouldn’t be that surprising since everyone
has to eat and learning more about food and cooking has become so popular. I realized that the CIA Boot Camps are for all types of people of all
difference skill levels.
I guess I should talk about the food as well. After all this is the CIA so the standards should be high. The buffet lived up to the hype and included
homemade muffins and cinnamon rolls, fruit salad, yogurt, potatoes with peppers and onions, veggie eggs, scrambled eggs, a breakfast wrap, sausage
and bacon. A nice spread to start the day of right. As I ate my breakfast I also notice a lot of the participants tend to come with someone else, either a
spouse or friend. At my table a couple was up from Washington DC for their third boot camp. They had received the class as a gift this time around,
which was also a reoccurring theme I saw. Several people I spoke with during the day had received a gift certificate for a class. Still 11 days till
Christmas if you’re looking for gift ideas. I’ll even save you some trouble, here’s a link to the boot camp site which includes a complete course listing
CIA BOOT CAMPS.
Each class includes a lecture, demonstrations and then hands on cooking of a full menu based on the theme. Class starts around 8 AM till 3 PM. Lunch
is included, the only catch is that you’ll be cooking your own meal. But after all isn’t that the point?
A few months ago I received an invitation to observe a cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America, the most prestigious cooking college in the
country. The CIA offers about 25 different Boot Camp cooking classes open to the public through single or multi-day programs. Flipping through the
program guide I felt I was going to have a hard time deciding which class to take. With topics ranging from Seafood, Seasonal Soups and Italian-
American all of them were of interest but as I leafed through page by page I learned that this was one of my easiest decisions when I found the Taste of
the Hudson Valley Boot Camp. This boot camp focuses on the importance of eating locally and how to prepare ingredients from the Hudson Valley. I
couldn’t have found a more perfect class to experience.
I awoke early on a cold Saturday morning in the Hudson Valley, a full moon still hanging in an awaking sky. Route 9 was virtually empty as I started
my 30 minute drive up to the CIA in Hyde Park NY. As I drove my mind was racing with excitement about the cooking experience but also the
writing opportunity ahead of me. In all of my past experiences I enjoyed complete anonymity. This was the first time my presence as a food writer
was going to be known. My primary goal for the day was to not look stupid, other than that I just wanted to enjoy the experience of cooking in the
same kitchens that the students of the CIA use daily. In an effort to be punctual I seemed to have overdone it a bit, as I pulled into the parking garage I
noticed I was the only car in sight.
All of the boot camps start with a breakfast buffet in the grand Farquharson Hall which was formerly a church when the campus was a Jesuit
Seminary before the CIA moved to this location in 1970. I was curious to see what kind of people take these boot camp classes. I wasn’t sure if it would
be all hard-core foodies with expensive knife cases under their arms, retired people looking for a weekend activity, more women or more men. I really
had no idea what to expect. As I looked around the room I found that it was all of the above. There were a few serious foodies in attendance with their
own knifes, but really it included every type of person you could imagine, it really was a diverse crowd. It shouldn’t be that surprising since everyone
has to eat and learning more about food and cooking has become so popular. I realized that the CIA Boot Camps are for all types of people of all
difference skill levels.
I guess I should talk about the food as well. After all this is the CIA so the standards should be high. The buffet lived up to the hype and included
homemade muffins and cinnamon rolls, fruit salad, yogurt, potatoes with peppers and onions, veggie eggs, scrambled eggs, a breakfast wrap, sausage
and bacon. A nice spread to start the day of right. As I ate my breakfast I also notice a lot of the participants tend to come with someone else, either a
spouse or friend. At my table a couple was up from Washington DC for their third boot camp. They had received the class as a gift this time around,
which was also a reoccurring theme I saw. Several people I spoke with during the day had received a gift certificate for a class. Still 11 days till
Christmas if you’re looking for gift ideas. I’ll even save you some trouble, here’s a link to the boot camp site which includes a complete course listing
CIA BOOT CAMPS.
Each class includes a lecture, demonstrations and then hands on cooking of a full menu based on the theme. Class starts around 8 AM till 3 PM. Lunch
is included, the only catch is that you’ll be cooking your own meal. But after all isn’t that the point?
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The Taste of the Hudson Valley Boot Camp was lead by Chef Anita Eisenhauer
with assistance from two CIA students Mike and James. Chef Eisenhower has
been at the CIA for seven years and resides in the Hudson Valley. Four of those
years were spent teaching in the American Bounty restaurant, which is the
student run teaching restaurant on campus focused on regional American
cuisine. Prior to joining the CIA Chef Eisenhauer was working at Savoy
restaurant under Chef Peter Hoffman. Chef Hoffman and his wife Susan
Rosenfeld opened Savoy in 1990 with a focus on utilizing local ingredients.
Ingredients were sourced from the nearby Union Square Green Market and the
menu was created based on what was available that day. Now days that doesn’t
sound like a revolutionary idea but in the early 90’s it was a seldom used
practice. Chef Eisenhauer was intrigued by the famers at the Green Market and
began to notice that most of them were from the Hudson Valley. Those
discoveries lead to further exploration into the Hudson Valley and the
importance of eating local. We were in great hands and the entire day really
was an eyes wide open type of experience.
with assistance from two CIA students Mike and James. Chef Eisenhower has
been at the CIA for seven years and resides in the Hudson Valley. Four of those
years were spent teaching in the American Bounty restaurant, which is the
student run teaching restaurant on campus focused on regional American
cuisine. Prior to joining the CIA Chef Eisenhauer was working at Savoy
restaurant under Chef Peter Hoffman. Chef Hoffman and his wife Susan
Rosenfeld opened Savoy in 1990 with a focus on utilizing local ingredients.
Ingredients were sourced from the nearby Union Square Green Market and the
menu was created based on what was available that day. Now days that doesn’t
sound like a revolutionary idea but in the early 90’s it was a seldom used
practice. Chef Eisenhauer was intrigued by the famers at the Green Market and
began to notice that most of them were from the Hudson Valley. Those
discoveries lead to further exploration into the Hudson Valley and the
importance of eating local. We were in great hands and the entire day really
was an eyes wide open type of experience.
The class consisted of 8 students. Ann and Caroline are sisters from New Jersey both very interested in cooking. Ann is a regular at the Trenton
Famers Market while Caroline utilizes local ingredients for meals she prepares for people at the senior center. Mary and Jim are siblings from Troy
NY and received the class as a gift. Their grandfather was actually a farmer in the Hudson Valley. Alex and Jessica are married from NJ. Alex doesn’
t usually cook much but Jessica has had a lot of experience in the kitchen. Six out of the eight students were in pairs. Ted, an English teacher from
Kingston and Bob from the middle of nowhere outside Troy, as he described it, rounded out the class. Bob actually has a ¼ acre garden, which sounds
more like a small farm to me. Everyone in the class was from the tri-state area and all shared a common interest in learning more about food from
the Hudson Valley.
The lecture given by Chef Eisenhauer focused on the Real Cost of Food. Taking into consideration all the different elements required of getting food
from the farm to fork. The CIA is a serious cooking college but she also wanted to make it clear that food is not formal or stuffy, “Food is Love”. I cannot
agree with her more, especially home cooking. The act of preparing a meal is an act of love. You are provided people with nourishment from the meal
but also emotional nourishment from the experience shared during the preparation and conversation that occurs sitting around the kitchen table.
Focusing on local food is just an extension of that love into the community. The hour and a half lecture flew by and easily could have extended into an
all day discussion.
We learned that the Hudson Valley specializes in a diverse list of food products. The most renowned is Hudson Valley Foie Gras which is the largest
producer in the country. You’ll see HVFG mentioned by name in the menus of top restaurants across the country. There is also an extensive
fraternity of cheese makers in the Hudson Valley including Bobolink Dairy (Chef’s favorite for cheddar), Hawthorne, Old Chatham Sheepherding
Company and Ronnybrook Farms. I have been able to find Old Chatham and Ronnybrook (also sells milk, ice cream and yogurt) at Adams Fairacres
Farms (Poughkeepsie, Kingston and Newburgh).
Apples are an obvious product of the Hudson Valley. Personally I don’t know why anyone living in New York would buy apples grown out of state. We
have an abundance of varieties available right here. Why would we want an apple that spends weeks on trains and trucks traveling across the
county? Even at large grocery stores I make it a point to look at the little sticker on an apple to make sure it’s from NY. It’s a simple step that can go a
long way. In the end you’ll get a better tasting apple. Quality ingredients are the key to cooking.
Other fruits that do well in the Hudson Valley are pears, stone fruits (cherries, plums, and peaches), melons and grapes. Since the Hudson Valley can
grow grapes there is of course wine. This area is actually the oldest wine region in the country. Millbrook Winery is my personal favorite and they
grow Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. If you are looking for a weekend activity I recommend stopping by Sprout
Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie to pick up some great local cheese and then making your way over to Millbrook Winery. Their tour and tasting is around
$10 and the vineyard grounds make a great spot for a picnic to enjoy your local cheese and wine. Local ingredients always tend to go well together.
Vegetables from the region include lettuce, greens, herbs, tomatoes, peppers, shoots, tubers, root vegetables, pod and seed vegetables (peas and
beans), onions, mushrooms, squash, cucumber, eggplant and cabbage. Vegetables should be used when in season locally. A tomato salad in February
would require tomatoes that were shipped in from Peru or Mexico. Personally I’d much rather wait until August when local tomatoes are at their
peak in flavor. It also creates some anticipation for the seasons. Much like you might get excited for Christmas in the winter, I get excited for fresh
tomatoes in the summer or roasted root vegetables in the fall.
We tried several local products during the lecture including Sprout Creek Farm cheese and Doc’s Hard Cider, which Chef Eisenhower considers the
best in the country. Local tends to mean smaller producers. As a result you can see more variation in their product which can be a concern for
restaurants that require consistency. The variation is not a variation in quality but more a variation in taste. Those variations can also be what
makes the product special. For example the taste of the cheese could be altered by the diet of the cows that year. It all ties into the local ecosystem
which we are a part of.
One of the interesting ways of incorporating local products into our daily lives is through Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). Basically it’s a
partnership program with a local farm or groups of farms. Members pay a fee at the start of each year. The farms then have the upfront capital
needed to raise their crops. Once vegetables start to get harvested members can pick up their weekly produce boxes filled with the freshest produce
imaginable. Throughout the year the contents of the box will change with the seasons. Chef Eisenhower is able to preserve excess produce through
freezing, canning and pickling enabling it to last throughout the winter. So not only does she get higher quality products then a chain grocery store
but it also could end up being more economical since the food lasts through the winter.
The last topic covered in the lecture was Food Politics which is something I hadn’t heard much about but it’s an important issue that affects all of us.
Chef provided a great demonstration she had learned from a farmer. She started with a full apple representing the world and how much of the world
can grow food. First she cut away ¾ of the apple which represented the water of the world which food can’t grow on. That left her with a quarter of
the apple. That was cut in half eliminating ground that was too high for food. Another half gone for land that was too cold, another half for land that
was too dry. She kept cutting away halves at a time until all she had left was a tiny sliver of an apple. That sliver represents the amount of land we
have on the earth to produce all of the food we need to survive. Seeing a visual representation like that makes it clear the importance of farming and
our farm land. Energy is a popular topic in politics right now as a valuable resource. Food is just as valuable but receives less focus. Also the majority
of the people that work in the profession of growing and picking food live in poverty. A short film created by our assistant for the day CIA student Mike
Brown showed the lives food pickers in California fields live. Last year seven people died in the fields of California as a result of poor working
conditions. People were working in 107 degree heat with no water and it resulted in the loss of life. The video really sent the strong message that we
need to do more to protect the people that provide us with food. We need to know where our food comes from and how it’s produced. Food politics is a
topic that I’d like to learn more about. This really was just the tip of the iceberg for me and I could not do it justice with a single paragraph.
The lecture was very informative and extremely educational. It concluded with an explanation of today’s menu and a general overview of kitchen
safety.
I was thrilled to be back working in a professional kitchen. It has been 11 years since I worked in a restaurant kitchen but it all came rushing back at
once. Everything from the professional range to the dishwashing station was exciting to me. When I worked in a kitchen I always hated the days I had
to help at the dishwashing station but today I was just glad to be a part of the kitchen. The menu was broken out into teams and work quickly began
with instruction from Chef and her assistants Mike and James.
I tried my best to control my excitement with foie gras and duck as part of the same menu; if you have read any of my other articles you’ll see duck as
a reoccurring cast member. To take it even further I was teamed up with Ted to work on the Foie Gras which is a product I had never worked with
before. Our preparation was pretty simple. Ted took charge on the blanching of the pearl onions and I took the lead on making the toast. My goal for
the day was not to screw up toast. Seems simple enough for someone who has spent years in the kitchen, at least you’d think. I found a sheet pan with
no problem. Cut the baguette on a biased into ½ inch slices, brushed each piece with a little olive oil and found a preheated 350 degree oven.
Throughout our preparation process Chef Eisenhauer would hold demonstrations for specific techniques. The first was making fresh pasta. With my
bread already in the oven I went over to check pasta making. She started with a mound of flour with a well of 4 to 5 eggs in the middle. In the classic
technique she began incorporating the egg into the flour to form a dough. I snuck away to check on my toast, only 5 minutes in the oven but I was
going to be extra cautious since I was not familiar with these ovens. So far so good, no colorization yet but they are getting a bit crisp. Back at the
pasta demo the kneading process has begun. The key is to push down and away on the dough to create the elasticity needed with pasta. This kneading
continues until you can press and imprint of your thumb into the dough and it pops back out. Ever see those memory pillows or foam mattress
commercials where they press then hand print and it pops out? That’s what you want with the dough. It’s a good trick I didn’t know about. The dough
is then wrapped up in plastic and left to sit for 45 minutes. Back to the oven, still ok but no colorization yet.
The next demo was at our station for breaking down the foie gras. First off the CIA does not skimp at all on ingredients, Mike pulled out this full lobe of
Grade A Foie Gras that probably retails for well over $100. The CIA students rarely get to work with a full lobe like this. Since foie gras is an organ it
has arteries that must be removed. The veins will cook out so they can remain. The artery can be found by following a line of fat and then by slightly
breaking the foie gras along that line it will separate right with the artery. Mike proceeded like a surgeon carefully removing the artery with a
needle and knife preserving the integrity of the product. The few scrapes left are saved and used for foie gras butter or terrines. Quick check on the
toast, still no color so I guess it needs more time. Ted and I both take a turn slicing the foie gras. The trick is to use a knife from a warm water bath.
The heat allows for the knife to literally cut through it like butter and the water helps keep it clean from the fat. The sliced pieces are then put into a
cold milk bath until cooking time. The cold of the milk keeps the foie gras solid and the liquid helps extract any remaining blood. It’s not as messy as it
sounds.
Ted was also interesting in having his knife skills evaluated so Chef Eisenhauer brought over some onions for us to dice. I had taken a knife skills class
years ago but have to admit that I do not practice the proper form at home. In this situation I tried to remember all of those tips from class, fingers
pinched on the blade, not too much force, let the knife do the work. All those thoughts went through my head. For the most part at home I use the
method I was taught with one exception, when making the vertical slits I just use the tip of the knife in a downward motion to make the cuts. In the
class I took we were instructed to start at the butt end of the knife and with a down and outward stroke to make the cut. To my relief Chef does not use
that way which I always felt was uncomfortable. I admitted that I was just trying to show off my skills and she commented that it’s really all about
doing what is comfortable, not the perceived “right way”. I think that makes a lot of sense. My method has always worked at home yet for some
reason in this situation I felt the need to change my style just to try and impress the Chef. That’s a lesson that I think applies to all aspects of life. Do
what is comfortable and works for you, not what you think will be impressive.
The pasta dough has now rested 45 minutes and it’s time to start rolling. Another check of my toast and still no browning. Something is definitely
wrong so I ask James and Chef if the oven is working correctly. My first mistake of the day is noticed. The toast should be dry without olive oil. The fat
from the foie gras will be enough so the oil is not needed. Not a major mistake but I’m still not happy about it. James puts the fan on in the oven to
help with the baking process.
Over to the pasta demo the rolling has started with the by hand method of just using a rolling pin. Even force is the key to get uniform thickness. Also
be careful not to over flour the pasta or it will not stretch. The other method is with a pasta machine which is helpful for larger batches like we were
doing today. A cool trick Chef demonstrated was connecting the ends of the pasta ribbon to create a continuous loop in the machine. One arm holds
the loops out with the other end going through the rollers. The dial can then be tightened until the desired thickness is reached. It’s a great restaurant
trick that can help at home.
Now that the fan has been on in the oven I’m sure it’s started to get some color. I open my oven to find that it’s completely empty. My first reaction is
a bit of shock, but figured that perhaps it’s done and someone took it out. Yet it’s nowhere in sight. Then it occurs to me to check the other oven,
perhaps someone moved it since it was going so slow. I open the adjacent oven and there it is but it’s now really dark drown bordering on burnt. Panic
sets in as I try to find another side towel to get the hot pan out as quickly as possible. The line is also very crowded so I’m trying not to burn my fellow
classmates. I remove the oversized sheet pan and rest it on the stove top while simultaneously trying to close the oven door. And there it is, the loud
crash of metal hitting tile floor. I felt like the Bill Buckner of CIA Boot Camp. I had just dropped my burnt oiled toast. How did this happen? Before I
could even recover Mike had grabbed another baguette for slicing and life would go on. I still couldn’t believe I was “that guy”. We’d finish the new
toast under the salamander which only took about a minute.
With 15 minutes till plating the once relaxed kitchen was now into a frenzy of activity. Ted and Mike had started to sauté the foie gras. Jessica and I
started preparing the fried cheese appetizer by coating the cheese in flour, then egg and then a bread crumb and sesame crust ensuring that every
piece was covered to avoid the cheese from leaking out. Next Jessica fried each piece in the oil. We’d have to wait for the rest of our meal but Chef
encouraged us to try them as soon as they came out of the oil with the cheese still hot and bubbly. The soft cheese turned into a meltly liquidy
goodness that contrasted nicely with the crunchy outer shell.
In a scene reminiscent of the show Top Chef teams hurried to get their dishes plated in time for Chef’s tasting before the platters could be finalized.
Each team cleaned their stations throughout the day and made the last necessary wipes as tasting began. Everyone did a great job and Chef approved
each course for final platting. Large platters of our hard work were presented together as we all got in line to enjoy lunch.
Everyone was quiet as we started eating lunch back in an empty Farquharson Hall, silence can be a good sign of a quality meal. And in this situation
that was exactly the case. I noticed that the majority of the group was hesitant to try the foie gras but most realized it was a great opportunity to try
this delicacy. My favorite course however was the pumpkin soup. The texture was smooth and creamy. The touch of crème fraiche brought it all
together with its tanginess. Once again duck makes an appearance in my meal but this time I didn’t have a choice. I also wasn’t complaining, it was
cooked perfectly and the sauce of apple cider worked very well. The pasta was very interesting. Two different batches were made, one with local flour
and the other with a more commercially available flour. You could definitely tell the difference between the two. The local flour produced a softer
pasta while the other had more of the familiar bite you like in pasta. It illustrated the point that recipes must be altered based on the ingredients. The
local flour required more moisture from additional eggs to achieve the desired dough constancy. Both versions were good but I think most of us
preferred the commercial pasta flour. As we concluded our lunch someone said “I think I’d take another course like this” which was followed up with a
unanimous response by the entire table of “we’ll definitely take another”. There was no doubt that my entire group loved the class. I did as well and
I’ll be looking through that catalogue again to see what’s next. This time the decision might be a little tougher, but there is no wrong decision.
I’d like to thank Chef Anita Eisenhauer for welcoming me into her kitchen to experience such a wonderful class. I honestly didn’t know what to expect
but I was blown away by her hospitality and expertise in the kitchen. Mike and James were fantastic assistances providing both instruction and
doing the dirty work like removing the foie gras artery. Mike will be graduating in February to pursue a master’s degree at Purdue University and
eventually a Doctorial degree. Thank you to Jay Blotcher for providing a small time food writer the opportunity to experience what it’s like to cook at
the best cooking college in the country. Lastly, thanks to my classmates for sharing a Saturday with me learning about cooking and food in the
Hudson Valley. I really couldn't have asked for a better day, well maybe I could have done without the dropping the sheet pan.
Famers Market while Caroline utilizes local ingredients for meals she prepares for people at the senior center. Mary and Jim are siblings from Troy
NY and received the class as a gift. Their grandfather was actually a farmer in the Hudson Valley. Alex and Jessica are married from NJ. Alex doesn’
t usually cook much but Jessica has had a lot of experience in the kitchen. Six out of the eight students were in pairs. Ted, an English teacher from
Kingston and Bob from the middle of nowhere outside Troy, as he described it, rounded out the class. Bob actually has a ¼ acre garden, which sounds
more like a small farm to me. Everyone in the class was from the tri-state area and all shared a common interest in learning more about food from
the Hudson Valley.
The lecture given by Chef Eisenhauer focused on the Real Cost of Food. Taking into consideration all the different elements required of getting food
from the farm to fork. The CIA is a serious cooking college but she also wanted to make it clear that food is not formal or stuffy, “Food is Love”. I cannot
agree with her more, especially home cooking. The act of preparing a meal is an act of love. You are provided people with nourishment from the meal
but also emotional nourishment from the experience shared during the preparation and conversation that occurs sitting around the kitchen table.
Focusing on local food is just an extension of that love into the community. The hour and a half lecture flew by and easily could have extended into an
all day discussion.
We learned that the Hudson Valley specializes in a diverse list of food products. The most renowned is Hudson Valley Foie Gras which is the largest
producer in the country. You’ll see HVFG mentioned by name in the menus of top restaurants across the country. There is also an extensive
fraternity of cheese makers in the Hudson Valley including Bobolink Dairy (Chef’s favorite for cheddar), Hawthorne, Old Chatham Sheepherding
Company and Ronnybrook Farms. I have been able to find Old Chatham and Ronnybrook (also sells milk, ice cream and yogurt) at Adams Fairacres
Farms (Poughkeepsie, Kingston and Newburgh).
Apples are an obvious product of the Hudson Valley. Personally I don’t know why anyone living in New York would buy apples grown out of state. We
have an abundance of varieties available right here. Why would we want an apple that spends weeks on trains and trucks traveling across the
county? Even at large grocery stores I make it a point to look at the little sticker on an apple to make sure it’s from NY. It’s a simple step that can go a
long way. In the end you’ll get a better tasting apple. Quality ingredients are the key to cooking.
Other fruits that do well in the Hudson Valley are pears, stone fruits (cherries, plums, and peaches), melons and grapes. Since the Hudson Valley can
grow grapes there is of course wine. This area is actually the oldest wine region in the country. Millbrook Winery is my personal favorite and they
grow Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. If you are looking for a weekend activity I recommend stopping by Sprout
Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie to pick up some great local cheese and then making your way over to Millbrook Winery. Their tour and tasting is around
$10 and the vineyard grounds make a great spot for a picnic to enjoy your local cheese and wine. Local ingredients always tend to go well together.
Vegetables from the region include lettuce, greens, herbs, tomatoes, peppers, shoots, tubers, root vegetables, pod and seed vegetables (peas and
beans), onions, mushrooms, squash, cucumber, eggplant and cabbage. Vegetables should be used when in season locally. A tomato salad in February
would require tomatoes that were shipped in from Peru or Mexico. Personally I’d much rather wait until August when local tomatoes are at their
peak in flavor. It also creates some anticipation for the seasons. Much like you might get excited for Christmas in the winter, I get excited for fresh
tomatoes in the summer or roasted root vegetables in the fall.
We tried several local products during the lecture including Sprout Creek Farm cheese and Doc’s Hard Cider, which Chef Eisenhower considers the
best in the country. Local tends to mean smaller producers. As a result you can see more variation in their product which can be a concern for
restaurants that require consistency. The variation is not a variation in quality but more a variation in taste. Those variations can also be what
makes the product special. For example the taste of the cheese could be altered by the diet of the cows that year. It all ties into the local ecosystem
which we are a part of.
One of the interesting ways of incorporating local products into our daily lives is through Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). Basically it’s a
partnership program with a local farm or groups of farms. Members pay a fee at the start of each year. The farms then have the upfront capital
needed to raise their crops. Once vegetables start to get harvested members can pick up their weekly produce boxes filled with the freshest produce
imaginable. Throughout the year the contents of the box will change with the seasons. Chef Eisenhower is able to preserve excess produce through
freezing, canning and pickling enabling it to last throughout the winter. So not only does she get higher quality products then a chain grocery store
but it also could end up being more economical since the food lasts through the winter.
The last topic covered in the lecture was Food Politics which is something I hadn’t heard much about but it’s an important issue that affects all of us.
Chef provided a great demonstration she had learned from a farmer. She started with a full apple representing the world and how much of the world
can grow food. First she cut away ¾ of the apple which represented the water of the world which food can’t grow on. That left her with a quarter of
the apple. That was cut in half eliminating ground that was too high for food. Another half gone for land that was too cold, another half for land that
was too dry. She kept cutting away halves at a time until all she had left was a tiny sliver of an apple. That sliver represents the amount of land we
have on the earth to produce all of the food we need to survive. Seeing a visual representation like that makes it clear the importance of farming and
our farm land. Energy is a popular topic in politics right now as a valuable resource. Food is just as valuable but receives less focus. Also the majority
of the people that work in the profession of growing and picking food live in poverty. A short film created by our assistant for the day CIA student Mike
Brown showed the lives food pickers in California fields live. Last year seven people died in the fields of California as a result of poor working
conditions. People were working in 107 degree heat with no water and it resulted in the loss of life. The video really sent the strong message that we
need to do more to protect the people that provide us with food. We need to know where our food comes from and how it’s produced. Food politics is a
topic that I’d like to learn more about. This really was just the tip of the iceberg for me and I could not do it justice with a single paragraph.
The lecture was very informative and extremely educational. It concluded with an explanation of today’s menu and a general overview of kitchen
safety.
I was thrilled to be back working in a professional kitchen. It has been 11 years since I worked in a restaurant kitchen but it all came rushing back at
once. Everything from the professional range to the dishwashing station was exciting to me. When I worked in a kitchen I always hated the days I had
to help at the dishwashing station but today I was just glad to be a part of the kitchen. The menu was broken out into teams and work quickly began
with instruction from Chef and her assistants Mike and James.
- Hudson Valley Boot Camp Menu
- Crispy Old Chatham Camembert Appetizers
- Sautéed Foie Gras with Caramelized Pearl Onions
- Pumpkin Soup with Ginger Cream
- Pan-Seared Duck Breasts
- Braised Red Cabbage
- Roasted Root Vegetables
- Fresh Egg Pasta with Herb Butter
- Apple Pie with Cheddar Crust
I tried my best to control my excitement with foie gras and duck as part of the same menu; if you have read any of my other articles you’ll see duck as
a reoccurring cast member. To take it even further I was teamed up with Ted to work on the Foie Gras which is a product I had never worked with
before. Our preparation was pretty simple. Ted took charge on the blanching of the pearl onions and I took the lead on making the toast. My goal for
the day was not to screw up toast. Seems simple enough for someone who has spent years in the kitchen, at least you’d think. I found a sheet pan with
no problem. Cut the baguette on a biased into ½ inch slices, brushed each piece with a little olive oil and found a preheated 350 degree oven.
Throughout our preparation process Chef Eisenhauer would hold demonstrations for specific techniques. The first was making fresh pasta. With my
bread already in the oven I went over to check pasta making. She started with a mound of flour with a well of 4 to 5 eggs in the middle. In the classic
technique she began incorporating the egg into the flour to form a dough. I snuck away to check on my toast, only 5 minutes in the oven but I was
going to be extra cautious since I was not familiar with these ovens. So far so good, no colorization yet but they are getting a bit crisp. Back at the
pasta demo the kneading process has begun. The key is to push down and away on the dough to create the elasticity needed with pasta. This kneading
continues until you can press and imprint of your thumb into the dough and it pops back out. Ever see those memory pillows or foam mattress
commercials where they press then hand print and it pops out? That’s what you want with the dough. It’s a good trick I didn’t know about. The dough
is then wrapped up in plastic and left to sit for 45 minutes. Back to the oven, still ok but no colorization yet.
The next demo was at our station for breaking down the foie gras. First off the CIA does not skimp at all on ingredients, Mike pulled out this full lobe of
Grade A Foie Gras that probably retails for well over $100. The CIA students rarely get to work with a full lobe like this. Since foie gras is an organ it
has arteries that must be removed. The veins will cook out so they can remain. The artery can be found by following a line of fat and then by slightly
breaking the foie gras along that line it will separate right with the artery. Mike proceeded like a surgeon carefully removing the artery with a
needle and knife preserving the integrity of the product. The few scrapes left are saved and used for foie gras butter or terrines. Quick check on the
toast, still no color so I guess it needs more time. Ted and I both take a turn slicing the foie gras. The trick is to use a knife from a warm water bath.
The heat allows for the knife to literally cut through it like butter and the water helps keep it clean from the fat. The sliced pieces are then put into a
cold milk bath until cooking time. The cold of the milk keeps the foie gras solid and the liquid helps extract any remaining blood. It’s not as messy as it
sounds.
Ted was also interesting in having his knife skills evaluated so Chef Eisenhauer brought over some onions for us to dice. I had taken a knife skills class
years ago but have to admit that I do not practice the proper form at home. In this situation I tried to remember all of those tips from class, fingers
pinched on the blade, not too much force, let the knife do the work. All those thoughts went through my head. For the most part at home I use the
method I was taught with one exception, when making the vertical slits I just use the tip of the knife in a downward motion to make the cuts. In the
class I took we were instructed to start at the butt end of the knife and with a down and outward stroke to make the cut. To my relief Chef does not use
that way which I always felt was uncomfortable. I admitted that I was just trying to show off my skills and she commented that it’s really all about
doing what is comfortable, not the perceived “right way”. I think that makes a lot of sense. My method has always worked at home yet for some
reason in this situation I felt the need to change my style just to try and impress the Chef. That’s a lesson that I think applies to all aspects of life. Do
what is comfortable and works for you, not what you think will be impressive.
The pasta dough has now rested 45 minutes and it’s time to start rolling. Another check of my toast and still no browning. Something is definitely
wrong so I ask James and Chef if the oven is working correctly. My first mistake of the day is noticed. The toast should be dry without olive oil. The fat
from the foie gras will be enough so the oil is not needed. Not a major mistake but I’m still not happy about it. James puts the fan on in the oven to
help with the baking process.
Over to the pasta demo the rolling has started with the by hand method of just using a rolling pin. Even force is the key to get uniform thickness. Also
be careful not to over flour the pasta or it will not stretch. The other method is with a pasta machine which is helpful for larger batches like we were
doing today. A cool trick Chef demonstrated was connecting the ends of the pasta ribbon to create a continuous loop in the machine. One arm holds
the loops out with the other end going through the rollers. The dial can then be tightened until the desired thickness is reached. It’s a great restaurant
trick that can help at home.
Now that the fan has been on in the oven I’m sure it’s started to get some color. I open my oven to find that it’s completely empty. My first reaction is
a bit of shock, but figured that perhaps it’s done and someone took it out. Yet it’s nowhere in sight. Then it occurs to me to check the other oven,
perhaps someone moved it since it was going so slow. I open the adjacent oven and there it is but it’s now really dark drown bordering on burnt. Panic
sets in as I try to find another side towel to get the hot pan out as quickly as possible. The line is also very crowded so I’m trying not to burn my fellow
classmates. I remove the oversized sheet pan and rest it on the stove top while simultaneously trying to close the oven door. And there it is, the loud
crash of metal hitting tile floor. I felt like the Bill Buckner of CIA Boot Camp. I had just dropped my burnt oiled toast. How did this happen? Before I
could even recover Mike had grabbed another baguette for slicing and life would go on. I still couldn’t believe I was “that guy”. We’d finish the new
toast under the salamander which only took about a minute.
With 15 minutes till plating the once relaxed kitchen was now into a frenzy of activity. Ted and Mike had started to sauté the foie gras. Jessica and I
started preparing the fried cheese appetizer by coating the cheese in flour, then egg and then a bread crumb and sesame crust ensuring that every
piece was covered to avoid the cheese from leaking out. Next Jessica fried each piece in the oil. We’d have to wait for the rest of our meal but Chef
encouraged us to try them as soon as they came out of the oil with the cheese still hot and bubbly. The soft cheese turned into a meltly liquidy
goodness that contrasted nicely with the crunchy outer shell.
In a scene reminiscent of the show Top Chef teams hurried to get their dishes plated in time for Chef’s tasting before the platters could be finalized.
Each team cleaned their stations throughout the day and made the last necessary wipes as tasting began. Everyone did a great job and Chef approved
each course for final platting. Large platters of our hard work were presented together as we all got in line to enjoy lunch.
Everyone was quiet as we started eating lunch back in an empty Farquharson Hall, silence can be a good sign of a quality meal. And in this situation
that was exactly the case. I noticed that the majority of the group was hesitant to try the foie gras but most realized it was a great opportunity to try
this delicacy. My favorite course however was the pumpkin soup. The texture was smooth and creamy. The touch of crème fraiche brought it all
together with its tanginess. Once again duck makes an appearance in my meal but this time I didn’t have a choice. I also wasn’t complaining, it was
cooked perfectly and the sauce of apple cider worked very well. The pasta was very interesting. Two different batches were made, one with local flour
and the other with a more commercially available flour. You could definitely tell the difference between the two. The local flour produced a softer
pasta while the other had more of the familiar bite you like in pasta. It illustrated the point that recipes must be altered based on the ingredients. The
local flour required more moisture from additional eggs to achieve the desired dough constancy. Both versions were good but I think most of us
preferred the commercial pasta flour. As we concluded our lunch someone said “I think I’d take another course like this” which was followed up with a
unanimous response by the entire table of “we’ll definitely take another”. There was no doubt that my entire group loved the class. I did as well and
I’ll be looking through that catalogue again to see what’s next. This time the decision might be a little tougher, but there is no wrong decision.
I’d like to thank Chef Anita Eisenhauer for welcoming me into her kitchen to experience such a wonderful class. I honestly didn’t know what to expect
but I was blown away by her hospitality and expertise in the kitchen. Mike and James were fantastic assistances providing both instruction and
doing the dirty work like removing the foie gras artery. Mike will be graduating in February to pursue a master’s degree at Purdue University and
eventually a Doctorial degree. Thank you to Jay Blotcher for providing a small time food writer the opportunity to experience what it’s like to cook at
the best cooking college in the country. Lastly, thanks to my classmates for sharing a Saturday with me learning about cooking and food in the
Hudson Valley. I really couldn't have asked for a better day, well maybe I could have done without the dropping the sheet pan.
Anton Plaza on the CIA Campus
Roth Hall in the Summer
Hudson Valley Food Blog
